A New Reality at Marc Jacobs Spring 2025

On Monday night at the New York Public Library, Marc Jacobs returned to unofficially kick off New York Fashion Week — closer to the seasonal calendar than his recent collections — with his latest runway spectacular, which the designer titled “Courage.”

A note about the feeling was placed at each attendee’s seat, and within it, he expressed that through guidance by humility, heart and gratitude, he has come to understand that fear is not an enemy, but rather a “necessary companion to creativity, authenticity, integrity and life,” as it read.

“With precious freedom we dream and imagine without limitation, daring to be vulnerable in the face of criticism and failure, not to escape from reality but to help navigate, understand and confront it — exploring through curiosity, conviction, compassion and love,” it continued.

Since his early years of designing, courage seems to have been a driving force that has made him a star for more than 40 years. Here, he signified that this perspective guided him to continue to design without limitations and sink further into fearlessness with designs that defied reality-driven proportions on pieces that would have been otherwise mundane. For instance, there were working-girl cords, but cut in 18th-century volumes and paired with nubby knit Ts; a wrapped trenchcoat with extra, extra large padding; knit twinsets with exaggerated, rounded pencil skirts in British heritage checks, and of course, his stellar padded lady tailoring.

The overall idea stemmed from a now signature look — bigger is better — he’s been perfecting over the last few seasons and nailed for spring, seemingly nodding to the notion of spontaneity that’s been in the fashion ether with his wide range of eclectic ideas.

There was hit after hit of the notion of personal style over trend, including a fairy-tale-like oversize nightgown; a fur-like chenille sweater with leather bubble miniskirt; an animalistic padded coat (divine!), and show-closing, sculptural dresses. A few were covered in dazzling jumbo paillettes, while others came in fiery velvet pink and red hues — a va-va-voom moment for the modern red carpet that nicely nodded to Comme des Garçons, but was entirely Jacobs.

It was a strong, eclectic and larger-than-life lineup for his powerful woman, who could easily be donning any one of his runway numbers throughout her day-to-day life — fantastical shoes with horned, bubbled or extended toes, leather lady “It” bags in the making, and all.