Aelis Fall 2025 Couture: Universal Love

After focusing on kindness last season, Sofia Crociani thought about universal love for her fall 2025 collection. “It was important to find a common dialog with something that was understandable to everybody,” she said. “Through fashion, we thought that color could help us to do that.”

So red — in its many different nuances — was chosen as the key hue for fall 2025. “It is a color that speaks to everybody,” said Crociani, who was also inspired by Hierapolis’ ancient Greco-Roman theater.

Her elegant silhouettes ranged from gently wafting to sculpted. One draped off-a-shoulder dress came in a rich bordeaux-colored silk.

Crociani used the ancient saber-cut technique to create a velvet bustier paired with a flowing long, white organza skirt. “With the fabric, we always try to construct the volume,” she said.

Crociani melded various materials. Some embroidery was made with lava stone covered with lace, for instance. The designer overlaid a swath of light antique lace to cast a delicate shadow on a dress made of upcycled paillettes.

Crociani maintains her partnership with the Paris Opera, where she works with its costume director Christine Neumeister. For this season, Crociani upcycled metallic ribbons from the theater and used them to give shape to a voluminous, sheer tutu-like dress.

“Through upcycling we can arrive at something that is beautiful and is collective, as well,” said Crociani. “Each piece has a story.”