Aknvas Fall 2025: Youthquake With a Bit of History

Designer Christian Juul Nielsen took a page from the history books to anchor his fall collection, taking a deep dive into Danish princesses Alexandra, Dagmar and Thyna. Each was married off across Europe and Russia, helping to supplant royal lineage across the continent, and he mused on their regal garments as fantasy. But rather than a dusty page out of history, his take was about youth and rebellion for today’s TikTok generation. “The idea is that you’re taking references of royalties, but you Aknvas it up, so you redrape it, recut it.”

Rethink it he did, with rompers a hit last season for him, here back in a variety of fabrications paired with skin baring bra tops in metallics with shine. Throw a faux mink coat with markings of a lynx over top (faux furs were a big statement, also in neck pieces and little pouch handbags) and this is a girl on the go. Novelty denim, like a ruffled denim raver pant, showed up on a male model, but to Juul Nielsen denim shouldn’t be seen as a category but as just another fabric to explore. “It’s not, ‘Oh, now we’re doing denim.’ I see it as any other material,” he said of the looks with ruffles, denim strings and utility details. “Denim is what I feel makes a collection feel youthful and fresh.”

Juul Nielsen worked alongside John Galliano and that couture background really came through toward the end of the show with ribbon bows tied to tulle and taffeta dresses with flowing volumes, creating undone and unfussy silhouettes, as if hastily tied when making a quick princess style exit. He labeled it spontaneous draping.

Juul Nielsen really leaned into the rebellious youth spirit this go round, missing a bit of the polish he typically brings. Overall, though, was an enjoyable take on clothes for a client who wants to get noticed.