Emporio Armani Men’s Spring 2026: All Aboard the Marrakesh Express

Out of an abundance of caution, Giorgio Armani’s PR team pre-empted shock and wanton speculation and indicated Friday that the designer was recovering at home from an ailment and would not take the bow at his Emporio Armani and Giorgio Armani shows during men’s fashion week in Milan. Leo Dell’Orco, head of menswear design, did the honors Saturday night, wearing a navy T-shirt and pants, just like the maestro.

“Mr. Armani has worked with his usual dedication on the collections that will be presented. Although he cannot be there in person, he will closely follow every phase of the shows,” the company assured.

So what a surprise to see that Armani had thrown caution to the wind with a transporting and daring Emporio collection of flowing tunics, harem pants, gauzy tailoring, ponchos and carpet bags, evoking seminal campaigns from the ’90s shot in Morocco by Aldo Fallai.

The designer opened his display with a blink-and-you-missed-it parade of EA7 Emporio Armani performance wear that gave off “Dune” vibes with its vaguely futuristic/dystopian layers, and a soundtrack of howling winds.

And then suddenly we were thrust into the bustling markets of Marrakesh, this one peopled with handsome men whisking by in wide-legged trousers, fringed suede bombers, scarf-like tops and boxy, flowing suits in printed pajama silks.

In a Milan season when most designers are playing it safe, Armani stuck out his neck with lustrous, gold-flecked fabrics, mosaic prints, dense embroideries, tassels, passementerie trim, feathers and beading. The collection could be costume-y at times, and there was precious little one could wear to the office, but it delivered a jolt of wanderlust.

Not so long ago, designers avoided referencing faraway places, fearing accusations of cultural appropriation – and many still do. Armani titled his collection “Origins,” and said it “returned to a founding principle of his aesthetic: a genuine interest in other cultures.”

We are all richer for it. Get well soon, Mr. Armani!