Fashion East Fall 2025: Olympia Schiele’s Louther Steals the Show

Olympia Schiele’s latest collection under the new brand name Louther shown as part of Fashion East, the emerging talent support platform founded by Lulu Kennedy, could be one of the strongest men’s lineups presented in London this season.

Previously known as Loutre, Schiele changed the name of her brand this season due to trademark issues.

The collection had a sense of ease and cohesion. The image she conjured up for Louther is new to London. It reminded one more of an edgier, leather-heavy version of the modern Italian men often seen on the runways of Zegna or Giorgio Armani.

Schiele showed skill in mastering leather, fabric combination, and deconstructed tailoring. Key pieces included a delicious leather bomber, a pair of leather trousers, and a grey knit jacket with silver embellishments. The overall relaxed silhouettes, achieved by seemingly chaotic but stylish layerings, felt refreshing too.

The ensembles all had the illusion of two looks merging into one. That was the result of Schiele’s collaboration with Polish visual artist Helena Minginowicz, whose work uses airbrush techniques to create visual illusions.

Showing with Fashion East for the last time, Olly Shinder doubled down on women’s offerings. He dished out uniform-influenced numbers juxtaposing wartime power dressing and the early 2000s new age minimalism movement.

For Nuba’s sophomore season at Fashion East, Cameron Williams and Jebi Labembika played with thicker materials for their signature body wrapping designs.

The lineup felt consistent and progressive. There was an effort by designers to distill their high concepts around functionality, environment, and desire into more accessible items such as hooded tops, and balloon shorts.