Roland Mouret Departs Namesake Label

LONDON – Roland Mouret has stepped down from his namesake label to pursue other opportunities, leaving Han Chong, who purchased the designer’s business in 2021, as the sole creative director.

Chong, founder and owner of the contemporary label Self-Portrait, acquired Roland Mouret’s intellectual property and assets through SP Collection, and relaunched the label with a direct-to-consumer-first approach.

He and Mouret worked together on the relaunch and became co-creative directors, while Mouret set up a studio at the SP headquarters in east London.

“Following the end of a three-year collaboration, Roland has decided to step down from his role as co-creative director of Roland Mouret Ltd. to pursue other projects, leaving Han with the legacy of the Roland Mouret brand as sole creative director. Roland wishes the best to Han and the studio team,” a spokesperson for Mouret told WWD.

In a separate statement, SP Collection said it is “proud and honored to be carrying on the legacy and design sensibility of the brand founded by Mouret in 1998.”

It’s understood that the Roland Mouret design team at SP Collection will assume the creative responsibilities for the moment, while a search for Mouret’s successor is underway.

Chong told WWD in an earlier interview that he bought the company because he had followed Mouret’s career closely and liked his style. He also felt he could tweak Mouret’s business model and build sales by appealing to women’s changing needs.

A victim of the COVID-19 pandemic, Mouret’s namesake label filed for administration at the end of 2021 after trying, and failing, to raise fresh funds. As a result, the business vacated its Mayfair townhouse at 8 Carlos Place, opened in 2011, and let go of around 50 staff.

Under SP collection, Roland Mouret relaunched with the resort 2023 collection, which came with a lower price point, while production was moved to China.

Following a successful e-commerce launch, the brand later reopened wholesale, and now has more than 110 points of sale worldwide, with key retailer partners including Mytheresa, Harrods, Selfridges, Le Bon Marché, Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Lane Crawford, Club 21, Beams and David Jones.

Ahead of the label’s re-launch in 2022, Chong said, “We love women and we want to celebrate them.” He added that the aim has always been to stay true to the identity and DNA of Mouret’s brand, but to make clothing for new lifestyles.

“Women’s mentality changed after the pandemic. They want much more versatile pieces, and ones that are not so trend-driven,” he said.

During a walk-through for the resort 2023 collection, Chong talked about the importance of hanger appeal and how customers need to be able to envision instantly what looks will, and won’t, work for them.

He said he liked the idea of easy fabrics that don’t crinkle, and can be popped in and out of a suitcase. “You have to be very focused ⁠— it’s a crowded market and we put a lot of effort into every piece,” said Chong.

Chong also wanted more clean lines and believes women are looking to dress “sexier,” post-pandemic. “It’s a sexiness for yourself, one that comes from the inside,” he added.

Mouret said that first collection had “more movement and draping — and fewer zippers. It’s as if I’m trying to ‘control’ the outfit less. The silhouettes are more supple, and I’m trying to destroy this idea of an ‘office dress.'”