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Chefs

A Chef’s Guide to Sumptuous Writing

From 1999 to 2020, Prune, a thirty-seat restaurant in the East Village, was a New York City institution. Its creator was Gabrielle Hamilton, a woman who (as The New Yorker noted in a…

A Young Parisian Chef’s Nouvelle Stodginess

I wanted more from Le Chêne, and from Duchêne. Not just more salt but more daring, more challenge, more bold and experimental vulgarity. Her crab thermidor (like many of the dishes that I…